K2'r Obhishopto Mohila Shirsharohonkari
Ashim Gupta
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Proti bochhor prithibir sorbochho sringo Mt Everest prithibir somosto porbotarohir proti akorshoner kendro bindu hoye darae. Grishmer Morshume nana desher prokhyato, olpokhyato porbotarohira ebong deshi bideshi peshadari porbotarohi sangshthar lokera Everest prangone eshe hajir hon.Tarpor prithibir lokkho lokkho dorshonarthider chhokher shamne uttejona uddiponar modhhye diye arohon porbo shuru hoye jae.
May masher shesh nagad Everest arohon porbo shomapon hobar pore arek prante ei porbotarohoner suchona hoye jae. Eti holo Pakisthan O Chin'r bikkhyato Karakoram porbotmalar su-uchho porbot sringo guli.June O July mashe antorjatik sangbadpotrogulir nagal eriye Karakoram porbotmalar su-uchho durgom porbot sringogulite arohoner jonnyo hajir hoye jaan bishwer prothom sarir porbotrohira. K2 holo ei sringo gulir rani.
8611 mtr (28 250 foot)uchu bishwer dwitio sorbochho sringo K2 -ke Bhoyonkor othoba nishthur (Savage)ebong porbotarohider porbot (Mountaineer's Mountain)name obhihito kora hoe.Bishwer 3 ti durgomtomo sringer modhhye K2'r sringer uporibhager shiter tibrota khub beshi. Tar shange ekhankar khamkheyali abhaoa o dhwosh probonotar jonnyo er sringe arohon kore nirapode neme jaoa khub shahosikotar porichoy o tader kachhe ekti swopner moto.
K2'r K kathar ortho Karakoram.1954'r 31st July,ek Italio doler 2 sodoshyo sorboprothom ekhane arohon koren.Tarpore 2008 saler 1st augast porjonto 299 jon ei sringe arohon korechhen. Tulona mulok bhabe ek goto grishmokalin obhijanei Everest-e 344 jon arohon korechhen. Shekhane aj porjonto mot arohoner shankhya 5000'r ektu beshi. Goto August'r mormantik durghotonae K2-te 11 joner mrityuke niye aj porjonto 77 jon mara gachhen, jar modhhye 31 jon obotoroner shomoy mrityu boron korechhen.
Tobe K2 te mohila arohonkarider shafollyo porjalochona korle khub'i dukkho pete hoe. K2'r prothom arohoner porer 40 bochhore matro 5 jon mohila ei sringe arohon korte sokkhom hoyechhen.Khub'i santaper bishoy ei je er modhhye 3 jon obotoroner shomoy mara jaan. Onnyo 2 jon onnyo sringo obhijaner shomoy mara jaan. She jonnyo K2 paharke mohilader jonnyo obhishopto bola hoye thake.
2004 saler pore ei durnaam kichhuta dur hoyechhe. karon er pore aro 6 jon mohila ei sringo arohon kore ekhono susthyo achhen ebong porbotarohon kore cholechhen.
Ajke ei lekhar moddye ei dushahoshi prothom 5 jon mohila porbotaroh-karider shommondhe kichhu alochona kore tader proti shraddha gyapon kora hochhe.
Ei PaNch jon mohila arohon-kari holen Poland'r Wanda Rutkiewicz, France'r Liliane Barrard, Britain'r Julie Tullis, France'r Chantal Maudit, Britain'r Alisan Hargreaves.
1986 saler 23rd june Wanda Rutkiewicz prothom mohila hishebe bina Oxigene K2 sringo arohon koren. Er age 1982-te K2 te ekti purno mohila dol niye bifol hon. 1985e aro 2 jon mohilar shanstha Broad Peak obhijan chaliye shofol hote paren ni.
1986e tini ekti chhoto obhijan kari doler shange jog diye punorae K2 obhijane beriye poren. Ei dole chhilen Forashi Maikel Pormentie, Dompoti Moris O Liliane Barrard. Tara shokolei bina Oxigene abruski spar pothorekha diye 23rd June K2 shikhore pouchhe jaan. Wanda shobar age shirshe pouchhon. Olpo kichhukkhon shirshe katiye 4 jon 27230 foot uchhotar tabute neme giye unmukto jaegae raat katan. Porer din shokale Pormentie shobar age 3 nombor camp'r dike namte thaken. Wanda tar pichhone ar shobar pichhone Barrard dompoti.
Wanda ekbar namte namte pichhon ghure dekhlen Barrard'ra tushar jhorer modhhye odrishyo hoye gelen. Tarpore ar tader jibito obosthae dekhte paoa jae ni. Lilian'r deho 19th July paharer padodeshe paoa jae. Mone hoe prae koyek hajar foot opor theke potoner folei ei mrittyu. Prosongoto Lilian Wanda'r shathe shathei sringe podarpon koren. Ar durbhaggyer bishoy tini'i prothom mohila jini K2 te mrityu boron koren.
1998-e 2 obhijatri Haidi Hokins O Kristen Bingel Goduin Ostin himobahe base camp'r kichhu opore Moris'r dehaboshesh dekhte paan. Tara Barrard poribarer shange katha bole mritodeho okhan theke namie niche Gilke Smritisoudhe'r kachhe Liliaer shomadhir pashei shomadhisto koren.
Wanda O Lilian'r K2 arohoner thik der mash pore Britain'r Julie Tullis bina oxigene K2 arohon kore Bishwer tritio arohonee holen. Shirsharohoner pore obotoroner shomoy 25900foot uchhotae ek prochondo jhorer tandobe koyek din okhane atke poren. Oi unmukto jaegae eirokom abhaoar kobole pore ebong oboshonnotae uni okhanei mara jaan. 1986'r K2 obhijaan safollyo o durghotonar songmisron. 2 jon prokhyato mohila obhijatrir mrittyu ei obhijane bishesh shoker chaya fale.
1992-te arek jon mohila obhijatri K2-te arohon koren. tini holen France'r Chantal Maudit. Tini je Swits doler shange obhijan shuru korechhilen tara obhijan porityokto bole ghoshona koren. Chantal ete dome na giye ek antorjatik doler sodoshyo hishebe obhijan chalie jan.Ei dole chhilen 3 prokhyato porbotarohi Scott Fiser, Ed Bhiestars ar Don Masur. Shirsharohoner din Chantal bikel 5 tar shomoy shirshe pouchhe jaan. Kintu porer din tini Himandho hoye poren. Take shokole mile dhore dhore namie anen. ei bhabe obotoroner poreo tini sahos haran ni. Er pore Aathajari mitter shirshe arohone jor utshaho lagie bina oxegen'e aro 5 ti 8 hajari sringe arohon koren. Lotse O Manaslu er ontorgoto. 1998-e Dhoulagili obhijane ek tushar jhore taar jibonaboshan hoe.
1995e Britain'r Alisan Hargreaves K2 sringo arohon korar pore obotoren shomoy ek probol jhorer tandobe mara jaan. Taar aro choy sangee'o niche neme jete paren ni. Porbotarohoner itihashe onnyotomo bohu chorchito durghotonar shikar hon era shokole. Ek khamkheyali jhor prochondo shoktite sojore achhre pore shei rate K2'r sringo borabor. Haoar tej chhilo probol ar taapmatra neme giyechhilo bohu niche.
Ei shob durghotonar poreo mohilader K2 obhijan theme thake ni. Tari folosruti shworup 2004 theke aj porjonto aro 6 jon mohila K2'r shirshe arohon korte sokkhom hoyechhen. Era holen
Spain'r Edun Pasaborn (26th July, 2004), Italy'r Nivs Mer ( 26th july, 2006), Japaner Yuka Komatsu (1st August, 2006), Dokkhin Korea'r Yun Sun Yo ( 20th July, 2007), Norway'r Sesil Skog (1st August, 2008)ebong dokkhin Korea'r Mi Sun Go ( 1st august, 2008)
Er modhhye Edun ar Nivs Bishwer 14 ti 8 hajari porbotsringe modhhye 10 tite arohon korechhen. Er age Wanda'r record chhilo 8 ti ei rup sringo arohoner. Tobe meyeder modhhye egiye achhen Germany'r Gerlinde Kaltenbruner, jini 11ta 8 hajari sringe itimodhhye arohon korechhen. Tobe K2 ekhono tar odhora.
Ebare uporokrto 5 jon dusshaoshi mohilar porbotarohoner bisleshon niche deoa holo.
1. Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943- 1992): Bishwer porbotarohoner itihashe Wanda chirokal ekjon onnyotomo sreshtho porbotarohi hishebe porigonito thakben. 49 bochhorer jibonkale tini bishwer 8 ti 8 hajari porbotsringo arohon kore ek record kore falen. Mohila porbotarohi hishebe shei 1975 sale sorbo prothom gaserbroom3 (7952 mtr) arohon kore sorbochho uchhotate arohoner nojir goren. 1978-e prithibir sorbochho sringo Everest arohon koren. 1985e Nanga porbot, 1986e K2, 1987e Shishapangma'r mul sringo, Gaserbroom 2 1989-e, Gaserbroom 1 1990te ebong 1991 e Che Yu o Annopurnar mul shikhor. 1992 sale Kanchonjongha arohoner shomoy 12th May tini tashar rajjye chirotore nikhoj hoe jan.
2. Lilian Barrard (1948- 1986): Matro 37 bochhore mara jaan. Mrittyur age ei forashi porbotarohi 1982-te Gaserbroom 2, 1984e nanga porbot arohon koren. 1986-e K2 arohoner pore obotoroner shomoy durghotonae ei porbotarohi mara jaan.
3. Julie Tulis (1939-1986): 47 bochho boyeshi British Porbotarohi Julie Tulis 1984e broad peak arohon koren. 1986sale K2 sringo arohoner pore obotoroner shomoy mrityu mukhe pototo hon.
4. Chantal Maudit (1964- 1998): Matro 34 bochhor boyeshe mrityu boron korleo Chantal Maudit'r porbotarohon jibon khub'i ujjwol. Ei swolpo ayushkale tini 6 ti 8 hajari porbotsringo arohon koren. 1992 te K2. 1993 sale Shishapangma Mul o Cho Yu, 1996e Lotse ( prothom mohila arohon) o Manatslu, 1997e Gaserbroom 2. Koyekbar cheshtateo tini Everest sringo arohon korte byartho hon. 1998-e Dhoulagiri sringe ek tushardhwoshe tar jibonaboshan ghote. Maudit opurbo sundori chhilen ebong taar opore bohu kobita likhechhen tar stabokera.
5. Alisan Hargreaves(1962-1995): Matro 33 bochhor boyeshe oshim shahosher porichoy diyechhilen British porbotarohi Alisan Hargreaves. Matro 3 masher byabodhane prithibir prothom o dwitio sorbochho sringo arohon kore tini bishesh kritittwer porichoy den.1995r 13th May prothome tiniek antorjatik doler sodoshyo hoe uttorer tibboter dik diye Everest sringe arohon koren. Er thik 3 mash pore 13th August K2 sringo arohoner abyobohito porei ek prochondo jhorer kobole pore obotoroner shomoy ei dushahoshi mohilar jibonanto ghote. 2 bar'i tini bina oxigene ei arohon shomponno koren.
